Its now mid May 2025 and plans for a trip from Adelaide, via the Nullabor plain across the Great Australian Bight to Norseman, Kalgoorlie and then to Karijini (the Hamersley Range) in the West are well advanced. Indeed we leave in 2 days. The Vehicle is packed for a long drive and a month of camping.

Once we spend time at Karijini and Cape Range near Exmouth we will make our way East back home via the Great Central road. Now this is a rather long expedition as the map below will attest. A final mileage of around 9-10,000kms is expected of which most will happily be on the “black top”. The only exception being the Great Central road to Yulara which is known to be brutally corrugated. 

Now I know this picture is not the best, but I can improve that once I return to Adelaide. It will just have to “do” protem.

Week 1

Our first night was Kimba heading in a Westerly direction after Pt Augusta. It was a frigid night and although the weather bureau said the morning temperature was 9 deg the ice around our camp attested to and entirely different story. We quickly decamped in between finger warming with the assistance of the kettle and headed off with a view to reaching the Nullarbor Roadhouse some 600km away.

Now our friends often ask why we travel such long distances around this rather large and in many parts desolate continent. My stock answer is invariably that we enjoy the changing ecosystems; but it is also true that the journey is as rewarding as the highlights. Now here is an example of what we discover enroute for in truth many things fill us with joy but others just fill us with disquiet.

Living in Adelaide we know that this year is exceptionally dry. We have also heard that our farmers and their live stock are suffering big time. Indeed recently we were told that thousands of cattle are about to be transported to the far North, a massive logistical exercise. Imagine that!

As we were driving to the Nullarbor today the farming tragedy was right up close and personal.

Most of you will know that the area we were travelling though is wheat and sheep country. An area thought to be very productive. Normally at this time of the year its green and lush in the fields and cattle and sheep are abundant. Well this year it was gut wrenching to see these normally productive areas barren and devoid of any wild life…no I lie… there was one group of about 5 cattle with a huge mound of hay beside them. Thats it! Oh yes …two sheep…but hang on are they just metal cutouts of what should be abundant?

We did notice some farmers dry planting their crops and pray that rain will be forthcoming, but what a huge risk. So the trip this time fills me with such sadness for these country folk. Its all very well for us in the city with food and resources on tap. There is another side of life we so seldom see unless directly affected…

Arriving at a place called Cocklebiddy this afternoon it seems the drivers have called on the Union to put a halt to proceedings ie driving. So here we are after our trip across the Nullarbor plains. The change in the eco system today was awe inspiring as the parched cleared farming land made way for the lush and thick vegetation as we headed West. Now this vegetation is primarily low saltbush and blue bush with any existent trees quite small and bowing to the rather fearsome winds that come off the ocean. In other words, stunted and misshapen.

Crossing by the Great Australian Bight is always interesting. I wonder if you know that this area is the world’s largest single exposure of limestone bedrock and occupies an area of 200,000 square kilometres. In other words .. big.

One cannot travel through these zones without being delighted by the bird life. because vegetation is so thick as one heads West there are lots of our feathered friends zipping in and out. The ever present Pipits often darted around by the side of the road as small flocks of Welcome Swallows made their presence known. I even thought I saw not one, but two Trillers sitting on vegetation as we drove past. Now these elusive birds did not sense my beady eyes on them obviously. Tomorrow we move onto Kalgoorlie and then start to make our way to Karijini. I don’t think the Union can halt this drive fest for long…

Now because we went into “soft mode” last night its up and at em this morning. So we leave at 0600hrs with a view to driving about 750kms past Kalgoorlie (ie the big smoke) to establish a camp at a small town called Menzies about 150 kms further on. Enroute we are overjoyed to again pass by the wonderful Gum forests close to Norseman. These forests are indeed a highlight of the Nullarbor plains for us as they are dense woodlands sporting large swathes of Salmon Gums an all time favourite. The many varieties of Gums here are not large in size by any means, but vibrant, growing exceptionally close to others in the same patch.

Heading to Sandstone today we passed by Lake Ballard, famous not for its beauty, as its a salt lake, but for the 51 steel statues that are spread throughout. These were created by a British artist called Anthony Gormley to represent the residents of Menzies. To see them all you would need to wander quite a distance over the lake, but we were content to just take some pictures of those that time allowed. Then onto our target digs for the night via a dirt road that required some cleaning of our kit when we arrived.

Today brings some delightful changes as we enter the arid ochre coloured zones of the Northern reaches. One would expect this as we were travelling on the Western borders of the Great Victorian and now the Great Sandy deserts. I confess this is my favourite terrain as the wide horizons and scrub have been an integral part of most past bush trips. Mulga, gibber plains and grasslands are always a delight.

In many ways this area resembles the vistas of the Northern Territory with perhaps one major difference. Here you know that you are in mining country so the transports carrying massive machines and equipment are constantly passing by day and night.

Tonight’s camp is at a rather daggy road house but we are happy as we got in early enough to grab a really nice spot by a creek bed. Then the sunset provided the canvas over tea. As an aside there was plenty of wildlife today, but I was greatly amused by a huge Wedge Tail Eagle trying to be inconspicuous in a tree near the road. It failed as both a Whistling Kite and a mob of Ravens were attacking it vigorously. I figured it would not take long before it capitulated, and I was pleased to pass by before that embarrassing demotion took place.

Happily, tomorrow we reach Karijini one of our target areas where we will spend 5 days revisiting its spectacular vistas after many years.

But before then I must congratulate one of my feathered friends. For as we were driving into Karijini I was staggered to see the insightful action of one Wedge Tailed Eagle who grabbed a large piece of roadkill and used its massive wings to drag the luscious meal over to the verge. If others are as clever the few bodies that evidence bird on roo bar may lessen considerably. These birds can take so long to get airborne from a carcass on the road that they pay the ultimate penalty.

Week 2

Ah but we are here at last and have been out on our first expedition today. I must confess that we do know this area well having spent many weeks camping in what was then considered a remote area. Of course, there was no one else around, but the fact that we have black top roads and semi comfortable camping (ie a very basic loo and shower) are appreciated at our age.

Today we headed into Tom Price and then onto the Hamersley Gorge. Eons ago, this was a rainforest. But the mid Australian ocean created this rocks distinctive Black Iron Formation which was made up of minerals originally deposited as fine mud billions of years ago. Regardless its quite rugged and beautiful and I confess I do like to see the huge ant mansions that dot the hills. The spinifex is flowering at the moment which is pretty also.

Moving onto another busy day we set our sight on Knox Gorge at its intersection with Wittenoom Gorge. This a very impressive junction but all I on can do at this time is to provide a couple of pics showing one side and then the other. The high red cliffs are stunning.

Sadly we did not have time to scramble down into the valley as we had a date with Kalamina Gorge. It’s been many years since we were in the Hamersley Range and I confess I had forgotten what Kalamina Gorge was like…silly me. How spectacular! Now if you look closely, you can see my friend negotiating the rocky areas. Returning we were delighted to see some huge ancient Paperbark Trees in the valley.

I also want to show you this beautiful pale blue dragon fly. There were bright red ones also, but this cutie took the cake as far as we were concerned. In flight it had a shimmering pale blue appearance as if its wings were that colour.

As luck would have it I am running out of power for this computer, but hope to be able to at least get todays adventures online before she conks. Our goal today is to head to Dales Gorge and the Fortescue falls…so up and at em.

I have to say this is another beautiful area, with stunning scenery and the promise of a track down into the valley.

So with walking sticks in hand we rocked hopped and scrambled rather ungracefully into the valley below. Naturally anyone else coming down was given right of way as two slowish rock hoppers were by no means up to everyone else’s standards.

Vegetation down below was lush, and I just stood in awe of those magnificent white gums which dominated the area. I think they are called Coolibah Eucalyptus. The White Cyprus also looked great amongst the other vegetation. After roaming around for a while we ascended back up again. I could not help but notice one gum growing rather well on rocks…what a legend.

Onto the falls and it was gratifying to see that stairs had replaced scrambling to the pool below. That is a million (or so it seemed) of them…that will be great on the way back. Disappointingly though we discovered that the place resembled a town pool rather than scenic location. Indeed, it seems to me that the whole of the Pilbara is just one swimming location after another and that this is the main goal of the trip for many. To be fair, it is a swim in a nice locale.

Roaming around we were reminded that Batus Batus is resident here as they were there in large numbers. It also nice to see how well the Figs do in this environment. They just grow massive roots and make their way down to the water below.

We were interested during the day that large signs about the dangers of asbestos were around. Reminds me of our expeditions some 40 years ago or more when we explored the old Wittenoom mine and were fascinated with the caves and layers of asbestos within them…oops.

To finish today, before my computer dies, I must mention that the area has the nomenclature of the Red Dog Country. Obviously, the movie had a big impact on the tourist industry.

The good thing is that the Weano gorge area opened today (after a fire). So a ridge top walk is in the offering tomorrow and perhaps Joffre gorge also.

Well not quite as we were advised that this walk was a recently burnt out and that it would be anything other than pretty. So, we have decided to walk to Joffre and to drive out to Weano to do one of our sunset strips near the gorge itself at dusk. But it’s now mid-afternoon and the clouds may portend a less than brilliantly sunny dusk. Oh well time will tell.

Joffre Gorge was rugged and a good place to view but I thought it would be more useful today to show you a couple of wildlife pics and to parade the delightful Pilbara landscape. So, this scene is typical of what you see up here and as I mentioned before the spearing Spinifex grass gives a command performance.

Now Lizards reside throughout this country of ours, but I still find these wee brave souls interesting. Surprisingly we spotted these two Spinifex Pigeons this morning also and noticed a couple of things. Firstly, they are somewhat smaller than their cousins in the NT, and secondly, I have seldom seen them in buddy mode…nice.

You will notice on the pigeon pic how very red the soil is.

Yes, I have said I love the ochre coloured landscapes but here in this locale it is dusty and cloying. Our camp kit is bedecked with many layers of dust and our clothes can only be described as grubby. The only good thing is that other campers (as opposed to those in houses on wheels) are equally besmirched.

Now this situation leads of necessity to the elevation of standards in one small area of our camp where food is prepared. For here we ensure, in Operating Theatre parlance, a “clean zone”.

I am looking forward to our next site, that of Cape Range National Park as the ecosystem will be very different again and we would be tempted to engage in a spring clean…that is for a wee while. The Great Central Road with its dust and corrugations will bring the grubby out in us again no doubt.

And yes I managed to repower my computer at the park’s headquarters today.

Now given the clouds around this arvo we have been checking the weather forecasts etc and sure enough a huge system is heading from the North of WA through the Alice and East. The Tanami desert track we had thought of as an option to head home is out already and the Great Central may be also affected as there has been rain around Yulara where it comes out into the NT.

In essence we never travel on these roads when significant rain is likely as that can be nasty. We know this from experience. Still there is time to assess the situation further and it looks as if Cape Range is ok so far.

The dark cloud banks this arvo though have just moved us into rain prep mode. All unnecessary stuff packed up and the Trangier out for coffee etc. Its still warm here and we will just wait to see what happens.

A handful of rain drops overnight and its sunny and warm this morning. So off we head to our next overnighter at a roadhouse called Nanutarra. Its only about 450 kms so a cushy day. It starts off fine but as we head North West there is a sense of foreboding as thick and amazingly complex and beautiful storm clouds gather. Clearly this is the tail end of the weather event up North. But we are on the black top so no worries, and in any event, they are high so it’s unlikely we will be in strife.

But as we turn into a more Southerly direction complex clouds lower and I have to say they were just awesome as we were driving on stoney plains and low hills and had a 360deg view. What surrounded us were a multitude of cloud bursts …wow!

Arriving at the roadhouse was a bit of an anticlimax. Its hot and about 80% humidity…great for sleeping tonight???

Then onto Cape Range and I was surprised to see a small cat (not the usual mammoth size of the wild ones) stealthily making its way towards a young Wedge Tail eagle resting on the side of the road. Just in time the Eagle saw the threat and made a hasty retreat skywards. Mind you cat may have been a nice meal??

At a camp outside Exmouth we were privileged to see one of our favourite birds, the Black Faced Cuckoo Shrike. This beauty is a medium sized very stately grey bird with a black face. It glides from one tree to another and always seems one step above the other rank and file birdlife around it. Then this morning we heard a Crested Bellbird and also a Chiming Wedgebill over the distant plains. What a treat!

Exmouth is famous for the Ningaloo Reef and that seems to be what most tourists come to see. In truth the sea scape is very pretty and the main attraction, the Whale Shark would indeed be something to see. At this time though its Cape Range we want to visit.

This area is a folded Tertiary limestone peninsula, which is dissected by deeply incised canyons that create a significant local relief. Caves exist throughout. To say that it was a most amazing sight would be an understatement. All we could do was wander around from one scenic zone to another and promise ourselves that we will return to do it justice at a later date when time permits.

And yes the beach we visited, Jurabi Coastal Park, a Turtle sanctuary was stunning as was the sunset tonight back at camp.

We head South tomorrow with a view to reaching Laverton as quickly as possible so we can tackle the Great Central Road. This promises over a 1000kms of dust and corrugations before we reach Yulara in the NT. The rain band that deluged so many areas around Alice Springs did indeed visit Uluru, but I gather the road is passable with “extreme care”. I wonder if that is code for a little 4*4 driving?

As we head South today its horribly wet, especially as we travelled past Canarvon where a big storm zoomed in. Rumour has it that we are in line for more condensation over the next day, so it’s probably wise to pay for a cheap fixed roof over our heads tonight to save managing a soppy tent in the morning.

With more time on our hands this afternoon, we are able to assess more fully the viability of the Great Central as a way home. It appears that there were big floods in that region in March and the road was significantly damaged, to be reopened recently. This does not bode well for a smooth transit, and we have therefore decided to head back home via the Nullarbor again. It would be a different matter if we had plenty of time, but we don’t. To add the storms that battered us today have headed inland and will also slow down transit on the Great Central. Now this is disappointing as I do like travelling this road. One has to be pragmatic though and just go with the conditions at the time. It’s a whole different matter if you are already out in the donga and the storm hits…then it can be a gruelling ride.

Week 3

On the flip side the opportunity that is presented for us now is a little bit more flexibility on the way home and the chance to visit places we have not seen before. We have, for example just dropped in on the township of Coral Bay to dip our hands in the Indian Ocean and to see breakers flowing over the Ningaloo reef, admittedly in the distance. Today we head for Goomalling which is close to New Norcia, the only monastic town in Australia. It was a Benedictine abbey founded in 1848 and we reckon should be an interesting place to check out tomorrow.

Our distance today was round 700km thanks to the early start. This meant that changes to the landscape were plentiful. It was pretty sparse up North but as we got closer to the Kalbarri region lush vegetation and copious gum and other trees emerged. After so long in more dry regions this was a most pleasant change. Passing Geraldton huge flowering Banksias started crowding the roadside. They were stunningly healthy and colourful.

Expecting to see lots of Kangaroos as we were on the road at dawn but were shocked instead to see large numbers of Goats feeding on roadside vegetation. Apparently, these feral animals are a real problem in WA and a combination of mustering and shooting is employed in an effort to control them. Personally, I think they have failed in this endeavour as there were just so many feeding on the side of the road. I do remember talking to a farmer once about the number of Goats he had roaming his property in the North of SA. He said it had become quite a good money spinner as he now realised that rounding up the ferals each year for the local Abattoir was well worthwhile.

The other thing I could not help but notice was the fencing…now you may say booooring… But having volunteered with Blazeaid for some years I am well aware of the varieties of fencing that get employed depending on the animals being contained. Here in WA sturdy mesh fences are employed everywhere. Posts are quite close together the whole setup looks robust. Even grain fields are contained, and I wondered originally if this was goat protection. Probably not down South.

So a day visit to New Norcia today…should be interesting. Raincoat in hand.

The recent “weather” is still hovering around, and we are equally affected by beaut sunshine and driving rain during the day. Despite that we made a move towards the monastic town (TOWN that is) to discover that they have tours available. Naturally we tagged along and gained a great appreciation of the early beginnings in 1847 and the journey through the decades. It is important to note that this is indeed a town that was built by the members of the monastery and that it is still functioning albeit the numbers of Benedictine Brothers have diminished over time.

This place is quite amazing, and I would never attempt to provide a story about it as there is so much to information that needs to be imparted. Suffice to say it’s worth a visit not just because of its history but to see the amazing buildings and art.

Below are examples of these. They are the boys college chapel and the girls also. These separate colleges in past ages were boarding schools till around the 1970’s.

The artwork here is to be appreciated and there is a story here. In 1986 26 of these original works were stolen as security was never contemplated by those who resided here (it sure is now). Fortunately, 25 of these were returned after investigations etc. Now what a loss that would have been.

Tomorrow, we head towards Coolgardie via what we hear is a scenic route and not the main highway. Our digs overnight will be the Widgemoultha Roadhouse, and then the next day yet another one further along as we enter the Nullarbor plain.

Arriving at Cocklebiddy. we have had the joy of seeing the woodlands in all their spendor. In this regard I confess Gums trees are amongst my favourites. Through the mid-South Brown Mallet Gums predominated, then in the wheat field the White Gum (left) and finally we the Salmon Gum (middle) emerge to join the other many variety of this species.. The health and vigour of these trees is great to see and the accompaniment with a multiplicity of other bushes and grasses enhanced our travels. The fact that we saw fields of Desert Poplars (right) added to the days travel as even in the Northern Territory they are generally just sporadic. Here in these little pockets, they were prolific.

Of course, rain seems to be a regular companion at the moment and as we arrived here did its thing yet again. But the rainbow made us forgive the nuisance value it provided. The evening winds were fierce and if it weren’t for big heavy rocks I am sure the tent would have travelled into the donga. Humidity was again extremely high.

Tomorrow we will head on to Nullarbor Roadhouse.

On the trip to the roadhouse gale force winds continued and storm clouds were around most of the day. Given that the nasty weather being experienced in SA comes from the West we understand that what we are seeing here is a precursor to the experiences in Adelaide. It seems many parts of SA are being buffeted at the moment. One can’t complain though as we do need the rain there.

A momentary reprieve in the weather occurred as we travel the Nullarbor plain. This was short lived as rain and frigid winds followed. Thankfully we are now in a nice warm tent with a heater on at the Roadhouse. Again, though the winds were so strong that we had to “chain” the tent down.

The weather has a habit of chasing us. Even in our new digs at Ceduna this afternoon the rainy periods of petulance are annoying to say the least. Thank God for our tent…and I know it’s supposed to be 13deg at home today. Ugh!

Despite the wild conditions we did have a wonderful experience at the Head of the Bight where we spent lots of time gawking at the Whales. I think the main actors were a mum and juvenile who were happily roaming around and around. Winds were extreme and the sea was equally so. That made it extra special.

Now just in case you think my imagination got the better of me here is evidence of that joyful experience. I really did not expect to see anything so was gobsmacked when I got a decent picture to prove the existence of our marine friends. Tomorrow, we aim to travel to the Pildappa Rock area and then to Kimba. This is within striking distance of my property in the Riverland and it’s tempting to head straight there. We will see?

Week 4

Ok give Pildappa Rock a miss as its raining and a walk there will not be pleasant. So we decide to head to Whyalla as I have never been there before. But the rain has chased us all the way to the coast and we determine, as wimps, to get a cheap cabin rather than face yet another soaking tent on our last morning.

I have to confess to these momentary weaknesses as we get close to the end of a trip. For whilst we are happy to manage camping deprivations enroute in the more remote areas things look more and more unsavoury as we get closer to home and join the rest of society.

Tomorrow we will reach my bushland property in the Riverland and know that I will have great digs and a beaut meal before the cleanup the following day. My sister has been commissioned to provide some tucker and the wood fire will be pumping away…super.

I have to say that enroute to my Riverland property today I was horrified to see the extent of the drought on the mid North all the way down to and including the area around my property where crops normally grow so well. All I can see is barren red soiled plains where the occasional group of Sheep look starved as they try to feed on non-existent grasses. This is truly depressing and mimics the scene as we headed across the Nullarbor. Please God, let’s have some rain!

Reaching my property after bull dusty roads, mud and persistent rain we were delighted to have the banquet tea we were promised and then the next morning a misty start to the day and at dusk a stunning sunset.

I reckon that will be enough for you now as tomorrow we will be back in civilisation and that has a tendency to be boring. An analysis of distance showed that we ended up travelling 9,869 Kms.