So Christmas has only just passed and Judy, Joy and I are heading South with gazillions of other holiday makers to our most Southerly state, Tasmania. Of course this means a rather protracted loading procedure to gain entry onto the Spirit of Tasmania, an impressive ferry which carries 1800 passengers and sports 4098 vehicle lane metres. The trip itself takes about 10 hours crossing Bass Straight…which can be a challenge if you dont have “sea legs”. But as you can see it’s pretty comfortable.

But before loading we spend a night in Geelong and enjoy an afternoon visiting some of the 40 odd Baywalk Bollards on the forshore. These, together with a wonderful playground for children, a ferris wheel and skatepark etc form an entertainment hub for them. Clearly it’s very popular.

But the weather is changing and as we make our way to Cradle Mountain for a few days temperatures plummet. A bitterly cold night, but we are overjoyed to be blessed with sunshine for our walk around Dove lake.

With Cradle Mountain as the star attraction one could not ask for much more in this area. It would be great to have the opportunity to walk the Overland track again as we have done a couple of times before, but I think this old gal is done with backpacking now.

As a new day approaches we are delighted to be greeted with muted sunshine again and feel ever so grateful for that gift. Nasty weather is enroute and we would rather deal with it in a day or two. In truth Cradle Mountain is an absolute highlight and I am pleased to see that my sister is as gobsmacked with its beauty as I always am. So I will pop a few pictures here to give you a chance to see this magestic place. One where I personally think the mountains take second place to the amazing greenscapes, the button grasses, ferns, bushes and trees….I wonder if its politically incorrect to voice that preference?

The park has a plethora of walks and boardwalks to suite every taste. Entry to the take off zones is now via a bus to preserve its integrity as a World Heritage listed site. What a beauty!.

Thankfully we have another day here to soak up the greenscapes. Then we will pack up and head down the West coast.

Just as an aside I must mention Joy’s shock horror at a particularly grizzly sound coming from the bush around us last night…remember she is a newby to Tassy. So there was much laughter at her first acquaintance to a Tasmanian Devil. This morning a Pademelon wandered around camp as if it was at home…no worries. Sadly we don’t feed supposedly wild animals,so it soon gave us up as a dead loss.

We had intended to spend an extra night at Cradle Mountain but needed to ensure we reached Hobart in time for the Salamanca market. So we completed the last walk on our wish list, one to Waldheim.

The button grass, ground ferns and Pandani around Waldheim are a sight to behold. The latter grow upwards of 4 metres, which is amazing for we desert dwellers Now some facts about Waldheim itself, for its here where the Cradle Mountain story seems to begin. Weindorfer and his wife found this idilic spot close to the mountain where they decided to settle and built a house. Later they added a chalet to attract guests and tourists. As would be expected this area became very popular for adventurers and was ultimately designated as a National Park and is now a World Hertiage listed park. The original Waldheim fell into disrepair but was rebuilt some many years later. Its an amazing story.

Driving North from Cradle Mountain we drove to the Smithton pub . Funnily enough we imagined this to be a small town hotel, but were pleasantly surprised to find a big township with a hospital, huge lumber yards and even a Mitre 10. That says it all! Then onto Stanley to see an interesting formation called The Nut, which is famous for its history and Mutton bird burrows. The township itself, like so many in Tasmania oozes that history.

But we cannot spend time looking around as we need head down the West coast to meet friends in Hobart. This Southward trip, as expected is slow because of the many mountains to be negotiated. Sometime before New Norfolk further South the landscape changes to mirror our own Adelaidian plains. In truth I am saddened to leave the mountain vegetation with its massive trees, giant ferns and wildflowers.

Enroute to New Norfolk we pop into the Edge of the World on the Tarkine coast (right), so named because at this point on the Indian Ocean is the largest continuous stretch of sea in the world. Personally I reckon its claim to fame should be the massive piles of drift wood strewn all over the rocks way into the distance; although the 20,000kms to reach Argentina is pretty remarkable.

Further down we come to the pretty town of Strahan and to an attraction we were keen to revisit, the Henty dunes. These amazing dunes are upwards of 30 metres tall and stretch 15kms along the coast. Judy and my sister are pictured …do you see them?

So onto a small township called Snug near Hobart, where we will catch up with friends. We will also take the opportunity to see THE market and the replica of Mawson’s hut which is located in Antarctic. But before then we spend a night at an amazingly historic town called New Norfolk. Ok so not too small as there are lots of pubs. Like pretty well everywhere else in Tasmania this place reeks of history. It was established in 1807 when Governor Macquarie realised the Norfolk Island colony simply would not work where it was situated. Hundreds of settlers moved to their new site which Macquarie called ‘Elizabeth Town’. Now that name went down like a lead balloon and the settlers suggestion for their town to be called New Norfolk became a reality at a later date.

It was terrific to see our friends in Hobart, and whilst there we took the opportunity to make the tourist pilgrimage to the Salamanca market. Then it was on to see the replica of Mawsons hut which was close by.

This apparently is a full on replica of the Antarctic hut which seemed survived only because it was under snow most of the time. It’s hard to imagine so many people living in such cramped quarters for months on end, though Mawson’s piano and the the capacity to play music may have helped. Not for me!!!!

Heading onto the Tasman we popped in the Cascade Brewery….as you do. This is the oldest continuousy operating brewery in Australia. Sadly most of the buildings were burn down in a particularly severe fire long ago, but the beer drums housed in the underground cellars were ok. James Boag (a competitor) collected this beer and popped it in Cascade branded bottles until they were up and running again…how gracious is that. Beer is beer, but their Stout was rich and tasty.

Interestingly Cascade supply mostly for the Tasmanian market, sending little to the mainland. They actually produce Victorian branded beer in Hobart for Tasmanians using ingredients sent from Victoria.

Rain clouds amassed as we travelled to the Tasman peninsula and we only got there in enough time to get our tent up before rain started in earnest. Its kept dribbling all night but we are cosy. Sadly no walks today, and even Pt Arthur is out as I don’t wish to be in rain all day.

Happily the rain passed after a single day of gloom and we have been here for a few nights enjoying delightfully warmish days with some sunshine. The focus of our attention has been the opportunity to see Tasmania’s rugged coastlines where the Southern Ocean meets some of its dolerite cliffs. We have not been disappointed…albeit battered a little.

Cape Hauy sounded like a good start and we set out in high spirits to discover to our horror that the old rather manageable track had been reformed in the making of the 3 Capes Track. We were confronted with thousands of steps to be tramped up and down to get the views we were looking for. Truly a nightmare for all bar the fitness freaks looking for pain. Never the less we did get some great views of the dolerite columns.

To lighten the mood of the drudgery an Echidna did a show and tell, fearless of the walkers tramping by.

Next morning we headed to the Tasman Blow Hole, Arch and Devils Kitchen. All very interesting and one can’t but notice the power of the seas on this coast.

Driving a little further along we were intrigued by the Tessellated Rocks which were formed over millions of years as a result of the action of salt crystals on compacted siltstone.

Another day and we again bravely donned the boots and head to the Shipstern Bluff and the Cape Raoul look outs. I think I can understand the name of the distant bluff (right) at the end of the walk, as it does look somewhat like a ships stern. Before arriving at this point though we are priviledged to walk through a forest of tall ramrod straight trees, and lush green undergrowth. So far our snake count has only reached three.

Heading back along the ridge it’s Northward to the Cape Raoul lookout that showcases stunning dolerite columns. it seems that regardless of where you look along this coast rugged cliffs abound.

After a few days on the Tasman Peninsula we pack up our kit and head North to the Freycinet National Park. Its a rather hot day and after establishing our camp we nip down to the beach for the sunset strip…very pretty.

Heavy rain develops overnight and the morning is somewhat gloomy. So rather than walking to the Wineglass Bay lookout and beyond, we decide to head to the Tourville lighthouse. In my ignorance I just assumed we would end up at a cute beach for a wander. But again the magesty of the Tasmanian coast line asserts itself and we are provided wonderful coastal vistas both to the South (left) and North (right) of the lighthouse.

Its the same story at Sleepy Bay where the lichen encrusted rocks abound.

Down on the beach (nope not nice white sand here either) granite rock erosion is most evident.

By now the sun is peaking through and we head back out of the park to an Icecreamy we noticed yesterday for lunch…naughty but nice. Then a bit of bush scrambling through trees and sandfire flats to birdwatch at the Moulting Lagoon. Sadly there was nothing much to see apart from a handful of Black Swans. Interestingly there are supposed to be about 10,000 of these Swans on the lagoon…clearly most were hiding as were the Ducks and other water birds.

A chill night for a change and we are up bright and early to nip up to the Wineglass Bay lookout. Heading up one can’t help but admire The Hazards and in particular Mt Mayson. The rock formations are just beaut to see.

Looking forward to a longer walk we planned to head on for a few kilometers down to the beach. But the sign that talked of the 1000 steps to be managed down and up was enough for me to pull the plug (do I need to point to a kinky knee?). We retreated back to camp for a nice lunch and lazy afternoon.

Regardless of this disappointment the lookout itself was quite breath taking and the walk up most scenic. Obviously this is a must do walk if you are in the area.

A boat trip around to Wineglass Bay was a highlight of our Tasmanian odyssey, as it reinforced for me (up close and personal) the amazingly beautiful and rugged coastlines which meet the oceans. The fact that we saw Dolphins by the dray load, Seals, Sea Eagles and a couple of Albatrosses was a bonus. The Eagles were awe inspiring, which is not surprising as they are our second largest bird in Oz.

It was a grey dull day when we left, but the Hazards were still beaut to see. Later as we entered the Tasman sea (code for rough boating conditions) the many and varied rock formations and columns were great to see as we passed by.

We settled into Wineglass bay for lunch and our decision to reneg on the 1000 steps down and up to see it seemed to be the right one. That period was a nice break from the washing machine further out.

Probably the highlight of the trip for me was not the cute beach , but the rock caves and blow hole in close proximity to each other. The fact that a ray of sun streamed through to the vista was a bonus.

Its a bright sunny day now, with strong gusts of wind that seem to be heralding a change. Time for some leisure activities and computing before we pack up camp tomorrow and head onto the Bay of Fires. Decamping may need to be early as the rain is expected to arrive mid morning.

As planned we crawl out of bed at dawn both because of the forecast and as a direct result of gale force winds that have lashed camp all night. By 0800 all our gear is packed in the vehicles and we are having breky in the camp kitchen. We figure the Bay of Fires should be really picturesque with a weather front looming. En route its both moody and picturesque.

Funnily enough rain fails to appear and looking at the radar map we see why later on. St Helens, our target, seems to be free of the weather front dominating Tasmania whilst we roam around. How blessed are we…

The Bay of Fires is indeed quite beautiful and we make sure to pop into every entry point available. The seas are wild and woolly, which enhances the views of and around lichen encrusted rocks.

Later in the afternoon we head back to St Helens for the night. Having achieved our goal of tasting many great vistas on the West and East coast we can head back to Adelaide with a view to more in depth trips to Tassy at a later date. Till then it’s Devonport tomorrow and then home to summer and all that brings. Thanks Tassy for a great trip!